Discovering the intersection of faith and history.
TASTE Florence
There are few cities that have the reputation of Florence.
One could rightly claim Florence birthed the Renaissance. So many factors magically (and monetarily) came together during the 15th century in this urban center. Like Botticelli’s “The Birth of Venus”, beauty itself was born again in the humble confines of this walled city. To visit it today is to step back into the quattrocento and touch and see the splendor of high art and architecture at its acme.
The short list of sites to see in Florence takes one’s breath away. It is easy to hyperventilate just reading the top ten: Michelangelo’s David at the Academia - I swear you can see David’s chest move in and out ; Brunelleschi’s Duomo - have you ever seen such a layer cake of gorgeous marble; The Baptistry - you will lose yourself inspecting Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise; The Medici Palace - see how the patrons of art lived; Botticelli’s Venus and Primavera in the Uffizi Gallery - larger than life! ; Donatello’s David in the Bargello - its erotic and masculine at once; the Ponte Vecchio - the way bridges are meant to support traffic and commerce; the Palazzo Vecchio and the adjacent Loggia dei Lanzi - don’t miss the Savonarola marker and his fateful Bonfire of the Vanities; the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens - bring your track shoes to pace yourself; the Basilica of Santa Croce and the statue out front of hometown hero Dante Alighieri. Did I mention Machiavelli and The Prince, Leonardo da Vinci, and more!
In preparation for a visit to Florence, read and/or watch A Room with a View. Set partly in the ‘City of Flowers’ the novel is a splendid way to introduce the passion of this place. The English author, E. M. Forster's 1908 novel has been wonderfully made into a romantic film by the team of Merchant & Ivory. Either form will enliven your heart and feet to see the splendor of Florence.
Start your tour at The Mercato Centrale Firenze. This public market has everything; food, famous Italian leather goods and live performances. It’s open daily form 9:00am - 11:00pm. It is conveniently located between the main train station and the edge of the downtown center. Grab a bite and browse the stalls.
From the market walk south towards the terracotta topped Duomo and find Via dei Calzaioula. This is the main artery that leads directly to the center of town. Once you find it walk one block and take a left on Via dell’ Oche for a short detour. Walk two short blocks and take your second right on Via Dello Studio.
When you are in the city of art you need to visit the shop where the artist shop: Zecchi. Even if you do not use pigments, tempera or sable brushes, you can view them up close and even buy them for home. Zecchi has all the original tools and material used by the greats who left their mark on Florence.
Retrace your steps to Via dei Calzaioula and take a left. This is a shop lined street that is worth window shopping. If you need to take a break stop in at the exquisite delicatessen CANTINETTA DEI VERRAZZANO . It’s at the corner of Via del Tavolini. Here you can sample Tuscan wines from their family vineyards, and the regional favorite of slices of bread topped with pecorino cheese with honey and balsamic vinegar.
Continuing on you will reach the heart of the city - Palazzo Vecchio. You may need to bolster yourself with a cup of coffee. Stop at Bar Perseo and either stand (Italian style) or grab a seat for an espresso or cappuccino.
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At this point you have two choices. You can continue on towards the Arno River, or head further east for ice cream. If you like gelato, listen to that voice and walk to Vestri Chocolate. Drop a pin on Borgo degli Albizi 11/R and walk there. You wont be sorry. They serve a pepper chocolate ice cream that is a palate pleaser. You get both the cold of the chocolate ice cream and the heat of the cayenne pepper. It is one of my favorite pleasures!
If you pass up on this fire and ice, head south towards the Uffizi Gallery and go left around it. Find Via Pro Santa Maria and walk towards the Arno. Just before the Ponte Vecchio on your right is one of my favorite clothing shops: Gutteridge. The founder was Scotch/Italian and makes wonderful apparel for both men and women with a European sensibility.
Head over the bridge and take your second right on Borgo San Jacopo. Walk a good hundred yards until you come to Trattoria Cammillo. On your left at 57/R. Our son, Johan, introduced us to this family restaurant in 2006 when he studied in Florence for his Jr semester abroad. On a later visit in 2010 we met the charming Director of Patron Services of the National Gallery in London. We have stayed in touch with Angeliki over the years and she has generously offered private tours of the Gallery when we have led tours in London!
After dinner stroll up the adjacent block Via Dello Sprone to Artigianale for a night cap coffee. Its a Third Wave shop so you can get single origin and pour overs.
Florence will impress your eyes and heart with her astonishing beauty. She wears her 500 year legacy on her sleeves. On every lane and street corner you will find elegant edifices with eternal beauty. Get in line to see the big sites for sure. Then make time to sample the small and charming whispers that will whet your appetite and sate your soul.
